Went to the breakfast buffet with Tony where we wondered how much two hungry cyclists could take the piss. When the waitress put our bills on the table we figured it probably meant no further trips to the counter. 

 

Suitably fuelled, we headed north on the paved road towards Yellowstone before turning off at Flag Ranch and back onto the gravel. Tony noted how he would be slower going on the gravel so encouraged me to press on and said we’d meet up later. 

 

The initial section was a lovely winding road through the trees but was then warned by some southbounders that things were about to get tough. Sure enough the gravel disintegrated into a sandy mess which made for slow going and I even had a pretty pathetic but needless crash in one of the particularly sandy sections. Thankfully this didn’t last too long and the road returned to much more rideable gravel as I passed the border into Idaho. 

 

Another southbounder recommended stopping at Squirrel Ranch where I’d be able to get a drink. I initially went straight past as there was no signage from the road but approaching the ranch house I was first greeted by a barking German Shepard but then three much more friendly humans who assured me he was harmless. With the dog returned to sleeping on the porch I ordered a coke and sat down. 

 

When the owner returned, the Coke was accompanied by a big plate of fresh fruit and directions to the bathrooms and details of the Wi-Fi - all very hospitable. In between asking me about my journey, the two remaining on the deck discussed the day’s horse trading and somebody they knew who’d just gone to jail - all quite strange. Upon the offer of further food I ordered a grilled cheese. 

 

Whilst paying, the owner asked me to sign the guest book and gave me a ‘goody bag’ consisting of homemade cookies and some sweets. It was at this point I realised she was absolutely hammered, which was confirmed by her twice rubbing my back and shoulders. The guy who was sitting down offered for me to join them and have a beer but I politely declined before things took a weirder turn. The whole situation was incredibly generous and bizarre in equal measure. 

 

Now only about 10 miles from the campsite, I was flagged down by a guy outside his house and we had a longish chat as his wife arrived home. I’m getting the sense not much goes on in Idaho and people are really keen to talk to strangers. He warned me that the way the trail goes features more sandy sections and suggested a paved alternative which had good views of a waterfall.

 

As I neared the campground the back wheel began to squirm around but this time it was not due to the sand but because I had a gash in the tire sidewall. Initially tried superglue which didn’t work so I put a plug in. It’s still another 300 miles to Butte, where I’ve ordered more tires to - so hopefully it holds until then. 

 

A really nice site on the river, where I was able to have a quick swim. Although $25 seems steep after being used to so much free wild camping. Later a British southbounder came over and said hello. He confirmed the trail to the north was awful and sandy which confirmed my plans to take the paved road. 

What should have been an easy day turned into a pretty eventful afternoon. Hoping for a drama-free one tomorrow.