Back into the swing of my normal morning routine. Said goodbye to my fellow campers who had been very kind to supply me with water and headed off towards Lake Roberts and the point where the route turns off the pavement into the Gila National Forest for a remote stretch through to Pie Town. Lake Roberts had the last shop for 150 miles which was typically closed on Tuesdays! I have enough food to see me through but a morning drink and snack would have been nice. Not to be as I made the left turn to start heading north and was immediately met with a steep climb - granny gear is going to get some heavy use on this trip. I’d been tracking the tire marks of a fellow cyclist and over the top caught up with a woman from Toronto. Former rugby player who had got more into cycling following knee injuries. 

 

Due to the extreme dryness in New Mexico there are lots of mountain fire crews out keeping watch, especially in the event of thunderstorms. I was flagged down by one of these crews and offered a cold Gatorade, which I duly took. It turns out they’d been drafted in from Montana to support and she was a keen cyclist and was planning to do the Divide next year. She’d also done the Southern Tier, so shared some stories on that. People are genuinely really kind with lots asking if I have enough water etc.. Earlier in the day a truck slowed down as it overtook and the man handed me a satsuma out the window.

 

The rest of the day was a series of climbs and descents, and getting to grips with how this loaded bike feels on the gravel. Spectacular scenery although also lots of evidence of previous fires with many burned trees giving a dramatic but slightly sad feel. Restocked on water from one of the few streams still flowing and and found a quiet spot to camp just off the trail. First night ‘wild camping’, although so many options here beyond the formal campgrounds. 

 

I also met a nice guy from Alaska who I leapfrogged with throughout the afternoon. I saw him pressing on as I was setting up the tent but I’m sure I’ll see him down the trail. Nice to have some fellow cyclists in the area.