Not the best nights sleep but managed to survive with no dog or horse visitors. Packed up and got on the road early and was rewarded with a beautiful sky as the sun fully rose and the landscape opened up once again into prairie land. Some extremely rough washboard to reach the first water stop of the day - an extremely isolated church who kindly leave a hosepipe attached to their gate for hikers and bikers to fill up. I also finally got a signal so some took time to do some admin (updating Strava). As I did so, the four guys from yesterday arrived, their Jeep having already passed me earlier in the morning. The Pastor came over and we all chatted briefly before I left them to it. Having got signal I was able to establish what was open in Pie Town and importantly, when it closed. Was running really low on snacks so pressed on a bit to reach the small shop before it shut, which also required a 6 mile detour out of town. I think and hope this will be the longest without resupply points on the whole route as I was having to ration what I was eating each day and definitely not getting enough calories in. 

 

Pulling into town felt slightly anticlimactic as I expected to see some other cyclists and share in the joint achievement of rejoining some form of civilisation. But there were none. I chatted with some nice people in both of the restaurants I went into; first for pie and ice cream (with a second take-away helping) and secondly for Chilli Stew and corn bread. Much needed. 

 

There are various sleeping options in Pie Town but I was veering towards the RV park with the promise of a much needed shower rather than camping in the park, as is permitted. But the staff in the second restaurant encouraged me to stay at the Toaster House. The Toaster House belonged to a woman who loved hosting mainly hikers doing the CDT but also cyclists. When she passed away the house passed to her children but she expressed a wish for it to be kept open for those passing through town to use. I knew new about the house and its infamy but was slightly put off by stories of some less savoury people hanging out there. But apparently these issues have been sorted and it is functioning as voluntary trail respite. When it was confirmed that they also had hot showers, the decision was made. And a great decision it proved. The shower was a delight having not had one in five days. But it’s also just a fascinating place with some much history and so many stories of people who’ve passed through - a truly unique place. Sadly there was nobody else here this evening but a good opportunity to plan the next little leg.