Slept pretty well for my first night in the wilderness. Before going to bed I did wonder briefly where the closest other human was. Turns out not that far. As I was about to pull back onto the trail, three bikes came speeding past with a wave. I caught up to the third rider and they were an older group of (actually four) guys from across the States. We rode together on the first climb of the day for a bit and then stopped at the top to chat some more. As one of the guys remarked that I’m carrying quite a load, I realise he is carrying virtually nothing. Next thing a white Jeep with a trailer summits the hill, who is acting as their support vehicle. At that point I realise this is the same Jeep that gave me the orange yesterday! 

 

Couple more steep ups and downs before filling up for water at Beaverhead work centre - a real haven out here in this barren stretch. The scenery changed quite dramatically from green pine forests to open plains with active cattle ranches for an afternoon negotiating a series of herds with some very cute calves. Back into the forest for the final stretch as I start looking for somewhere to camp. Pass on a couple of options and then suddenly pass a herd of horses. I carried on for another mile or so but as I’m about to leave the National Forest land I have to make do and set up behind a little hill away from the road. 

 

I felt a bit uneasy as, given by the state of the floor, this was clearly an area still frequented by the horses. But they seemed happy enough closer to the ranch when I passed them so trusted they wouldn’t be too interested in me. Uneasiness was elevated further by the sound of aggressive dog barking as I was about to go to sleep. My first thought was a coyote, having seen one a couple of days earlier and not really knowing their likely threat to humans. On establishing that the barking was not getting any louder or quieter I assumed they were attached to a nearby ranch rather than wild and about to enter my tent. It sounds slightly frivolous but I think four days of having no phone signal has heightened my sense of isolation and vulnerability. Sometimes a place just doesn’t feel quite right as the night before I felt no unease at all despite being essentially in the same position.